Life’s Too Short for Bad Olive Oil

MICHAEL: HALT is the acronym for it, but heat, air, light, and time are the things that really degrade oil.

ROSIE: Interesting.

MICHAEL: So exposing it to the air, the light, and then the time … obviously, the longer you wait, the more likely it’s going to go rancid. So that’s an easy way to remember, like, “Oh, what should I be doing with this? How should I be storing this olive oil?” That’s an easy way to remember it.

CHRISTINE: Those just happen to be the same things that make us look old, right? Heat, air, light, and time.

MICHAEL: Yeah, exactly. Yeah, I guess it applies to us, too.

CHRISTINE: I’m Christine Cyr Clisset.

CAIRA: I’m Caira Blackwell.

ROSIE: I’m Rosie Guerin, and you’re listening to The Wirecutter Show. Today, we’re talking about olive oils.

CHRISTINE: Yes. I love olive oil.

CAIRA: I love olive oil, too.

CHRISTINE: It’s one of my favorite fats.

ROSIE: Especially in the summer, especially on some really fresh veg.

CHRISTINE: Oh, yeah.

ROSIE: On a super-ripe tomato.

CAIRA: Or when you make your own homemade salad dressing. Yeah, that’s good.

ROSIE: I recently heard this hot take by a food journalist, who said, “If you’re going to splurge on anything at the grocery store, it should be oil or vinegar.” And I subscribe to that. I like being adventurous with taste-testing different olive oils.

CHRISTINE: That’s interesting. I’ve never thought about the thing that I would spend the most on. I think about that with a wardrobe, like, always shoes. Got to get the good shoes. But, yeah, I could see that. Olive oil, butter —

ROSIE: I have a couple of items that … yeah, butter.

CHRISTINE: Yeah, these things that are the fats that you cook with.

CAIRA: Yeah, I like the idea, but honestly, I’m just going to splurge on the protein every single time. I’d rather spend my money there. But I get it.

CHRISTINE: Well, given it is prime tomato season, olive oil is the thing that you want in the summertime. We thought this would be a great time to talk about our olive oil review with our writer, Michael Sullivan, who has been on the show before. He’s awesome. He is just a wealth of knowledge. He is going to come on with us today and talk about olive oils, the ones we’ve tasted, the ones we recommend, but also he’s going to give us a real schooling on how to shop for olive oil. So if you’re out there in the grocery store deciding what you’re going to buy, I think you’ll be able to walk away from this episode with a lot of really actionable tips on how to get a great bottle.

ROSIE: Yeah, and it turns out, one of the ways to identify good olive oil is to taste it, and we’re going to do a little bit of that, as well.

CHRISTINE: That’s right.

ROSIE: So we’re going to take a quick break. When we’re back, we’ll chat with Michael.

CAIRA: Welcome back. With us now is Michael Sullivan. He’s a senior staff writer on our kitchen team, and he’s reviewed a ton of kitchen gear for Wirecutter. And he joined us last October, actually, to talk about kitchen gear that will last a lifetime or close to it. So for our review of olive oils, Michael researched over 40 oils and tested over a dozen, and he used to work at an olive oil store. So cool.

CHRISTINE: Michael, welcome back.

MICHAEL: Thank you for having me.

ROSIE: Who better but you?

CHRISTINE: Yeah, absolutely. I’m really excited to talk about this with you today. Michael, just to paint a picture, a little bit of what our tastings look like in our test kitchen, we have something around 10 staff writers and editors at this point, and I’m always intrigued when you’re doing a tasting. It’s, like, this very serious thing that’s going on in the test kitchen. I see a group of people sitting around a table, they’re quiet, they’ve got notes in front of them, there’s little bowls or whatever you guys are eating. I always like to go in and peek in when nobody’s in there — I’m going to admit it. Then I’ll go in and look in the fridge and see what you guys are testing, and it’s a wall of butter or yogurt —

MICHAEL: Or yogurt, yeah. Yeah.

CHRISTINE: —or whatever, yeah. And so it’s really fun, and you guys do a lot of work, and we’re going to talk a little bit about that. But we thought it would be fun to start this episode by you testing our olive oil knowledge, just to get a baseline of what we know.

MICHAEL: Great. Okay, yeah. So I came up with some true-or-false questions for you. Okay, first one, true or false: Olive oil doesn’t get better with age.

ROSIE: True.

CAIRA: True.

CHRISTINE: I think that’s true.

MICHAEL: True, yeah. True or false: Italy is among the biggest importers of olive oil.

ROSIE: True.

CAIRA: True.

CHRISTINE: True.

MICHAEL: True, yeah.

CAIRA: Oh my gosh, we know so much.

MICHAEL: Yeah, that one, I feel like that was a tricky one. Okay, true or false: It’s fine to store your olive oil near the stove with a pour spout.

CHRISTINE: I want to say true.

MICHAEL: Oh, it’s mixed.

CHRISTINE: I’m going to say true.

MICHAEL: Okay. It’s false. Yeah. You don’t want to keep it near a heat source, so you want to keep it away from heat, and you want a nice tight-sealing lid on it. You don’t want to keep it open to the air.

CAIRA: So you’re saying that bottle that’s sitting right by the stove is not a good idea —

MICHAEL: Probably not the best way.

CAIRA: — I’ve been doing my whole life?

CHRISTINE: It makes a lot of sense, because you just reach for it.

CAIRA: You use it for everything.

MICHAEL: Yeah, yeah, exactly. Okay, and last one: It’s best to store olive oil in the fridge.

ROSIE: False.

CAIRA: False?

MICHAEL: False, yeah.

CHRISTINE: Okay. I didn’t answer that one, but —

MICHAEL: Oh, sorry. Sorry.

CHRISTINE: — I’m just thinking of all the people I know who store their olive oil in the fridge.

CAIRA: I’ve never heard of that.

CHRISTINE: It might be —

MICHAEL: It’s a common thing.

CHRISTINE: — a hippie West Coast thing.

CAIRA: But doesn’t it get congealed, like coconut oil?

CHRISTINE: Yeah, it does.

MICHAEL: Which is why, yeah —

CAIRA: Got it.

MICHAEL: — you don’t want to do that.

CHRISTINE: On the money.

ROSIE: Well, I’d like to say I think we have some things to learn. Let’s get into it.

MICHAEL: Okay.

CAIRA: Yeah. So Michael, first of all, can you tell us how you test olive oils?

MICHAEL: Typically, for any of our taste tests, we’re looking at what’s available in national chain grocery stores, because we want people to easily find them. And then we also took a stance and only tested bottles with a harvest date. So that’s really the only guarantee that you know how fresh your oil is, if it has the harvest date on it.

CAIRA: Will all bottles have a harvest date on them?

MICHAEL: They will not.

CAIRA: Okay.

MICHAEL: So that will really help you narrow down the selection.

ROSIE: And by “harvest date,” we mean the date that the olives —

MICHAEL: That it was crushed, yeah. Yeah.

CHRISTINE: Like wine.

MICHAEL: Well, like wine, a little different —

ROSIE: Wine sits —

MICHAEL: Yeah, wine sits for a while. Yeah, yeah, yeah. For olives, so you want to get them crushed and bottled as soon as possible, yeah.

CHRISTINE: Got it, got it.

CAIRA: Is the harvest date different from the best-by date?

MICHAEL: Yes. So the best-by date is arbitrary. So the harvest date will tell you when exactly those olives were crushed. If it’s just a best-by date, you have absolutely no idea when that oil was put in that bottle, right? It could be old oil, it could be new oil, it could be a mix of both. So that really tells you how fresh the oil is, and that’s really the only way to know. I mean, there’s a lot of other things that we’ll talk about today, but, yeah, that’s a big one.

CAIRA: Got it.

MICHAEL: We didn’t include any flavored oils. We really wanted to just do plain olive oil. And then we looked for oils that would have a range of flavors, that you could use them for various cooking applications.

CHRISTINE: And what is the actual testing process when you are all in that room in the kitchen and you’re tasting things together?

MICHAEL: Yeah, olive oil’s a funny one. I mean, I should mention that we’re not trained professional olive oil tasters — “These testers trained for years isolating specific defects in the oil, and that’s how they’re grading it for the sensory part of it.”

CAIRA: Olive oil connoisseurs, basically?

CHRISTINE: Sommeliers?

MICHAEL: Yeah, yeah.

CHRISTINE: Olive oil sommeliers?

MICHAEL: And so we’re not that. So we’re tasting just based on flavor and the nuances of that. But we did follow the California Olive Oil Council’s guidelines for tasting. So we use these little blue cups that are tulip-shaped, and they’re dark-colored so that you don’t see the color of the oil, because that’s not an indication of quality. So it masks the color so you’re not influenced by that.

ROSIE: These look like mini snifters.

CHRISTINE: Yeah, can you —

MICHAEL: I know, yeah, they look like little brandy … yeah.

CAIRA: When you have a really fancy whiskey.

ROSIE: Little brandy.

CAIRA: Oh, yeah. Yeah, yeah.

MICHAEL: But the tulip shape helps to focus the aroma when you’re smelling it. So we use these when we test, which is this is what professional tasters would also use. And then we concealed all the brands, as we always do with our taste tests. And then we’re evaluating the smell, the fruitiness, the bitterness, the pungency, how peppery … that kick you get in the back of your throat when you swallow, good indication of how fresh the oil is.

CHRISTINE: So are you just sipping the oil? You’re not dipping bread into it or something?

MICHAEL: So we’re slurping it —

CHRISTINE: Slurping it?

MICHAEL: Yeah, because you want to move it across your palate, and the oil… We also do test it with bread after we —

CAIRA: After you’ve slurped it?

MICHAEL: After we’ve slurped it, yeah. We always go back and taste the oils again with bread.

ROSIE: So much to my wife’s chagrin, I love spending a lot of time in the olive oil section at the grocery store. I’m never quite sure what I should look for on a bottle. So can you walk us through what you should look for when you’re going to grab a bottle of olive oil?

MICHAEL: Sure, yeah. I mean, it is very overwhelming when you’re standing in the store, and you’re like, “Oh my God, all these bottles.” One of the easiest things you can do right away is avoid clear-glass bottles. The UV rays will degrade the oil, and that’s through photooxidation. So it’s … HALT is the acronym for it, but heat, air, light, and time are the things that really degrade oil. So exposing it to the air, the light, and then the time, obviously, the longer you wait, the more likely it’s going to go rancid. That’s an easy way to remember, like, “Oh, what should I be doing with this? How should I be storing this olive oil?” That’s an easy way to remember it.

CHRISTINE: Those just happen to be the same things that make us look old, right? Heat, air, light, and time.

MICHAEL: Yeah, exactly. Yeah, I guess it applies to us too. So a clear bottle, you just don’t know how that was stored, you don’t know where it was stored, how long it’s been exposed to light. So it’s just you risk it being already oxidated by the time you open it. So that’s an easy one to avoid.

ROSIE: A dark bottle.

MICHAEL: So you want a tin or a dark green bottle, dark glass. And then I think most people know to look for extra-virgin olive oil, but I don’t know that everyone really knows what that means. Actually, that should have been a true-or-false question, but —

CAIRA: I would’ve gotten that one wrong.

ROSIE: Yeah, I’d say … talk about it.

MICHAEL: So what it means is that the oil has been lab- and taste-tested — like I was saying, those professional tasters — and they’re making sure that it’s free of any defects. And also it can’t have any excessive heat applied to it during the extraction, and the use of any solvents or chemicals to extract that oil are prohibited. So it’s the highest grade. This comes with some caveats, and I think if you bear with me for a minute, I can dig into this for a minute.

ROSIE: Love it.

MICHAEL: So there’s no national or international agreed-upon standard for olive oils. So the USDA has their own guidelines, but they’re voluntary for producers, which means it’s not mandatory. So an oil that’s coming in from another country, that’s coming into the United States, at the border there’s no one randomly checking it to make sure that it is indeed what it says on the label. That grade is what it is, right? California has its own laws —

ROSIE: Shocking.

MICHAEL: Yes. So the California department of agriculture, CDFA, they have some pretty strict laws. Actually, they’re slightly stricter than the USDA. The acidity level has to be lower for the oils that are extra-virgin. They’re randomly tested by the CDFA. So the producer of olive oil is going to have a random person come and show up, and they’re going to test the oil to make sure that is indeed what it says it is. But California only makes something like 5% of the oil in the US; the rest is all imported. So it’s a huge amount of oil that’s coming in from elsewhere. So while their guidelines are really strict, it’s not that much oil.

ROSIE: So this is for olive oil that’s made in California?

MICHAEL: Yes, and specifically for producers that make 5,000 gallons of oil or more.

ROSIE: Wow. Okay.

MICHAEL: Yeah. Then when we’re talking about oils in Europe, they have the IOC, the International Olive Council, and they are an intergovernmental organization and setting the guidelines for all these different countries in Europe. And all of the European Union countries are part of the IOC, but they are not enforcing the laws for the olive oil. That’s up to each of the countries that is a member of the IOC, right? And that’s for all of the oils that are sold in Europe. So they’re taste-tested, and they’re lab-tested. But because the US is not a member of the IOC, there’s not really an incentive to make sure that the best oils are coming our way.

ROSIE: So they can export the dregs?

CHRISTINE: Yeah, they’re sending us their junk?

MICHAEL: Yeah. I mean, in theory, no, they should not be, right? But —

ROSIE: But they could —

MICHAEL: — how do we know?

ROSIE: — and how would we know? Yeah.

MICHAEL: Right. Now I should mention, the FDA has done random testing. They did … about 10 years ago, they were in the DC area, and they grabbed a bunch of bottles of oil from grocery stores and had them lab-tested, and they found that adulteration was low, meaning the oils were not cut with seed oils or other types of oil. They did not do a taste test.

So the oils could still be labeled “extra-virgin” but not be extra-virgin, because let’s say, when it got shipped over here, it was way too hot, and it’s spoiled on the way, but it still says “extra-virgin” on the label. But then you bring it home and you use it, and it’s no longer what it says it is. It’s a purity-versus-quality issue. The reason that you do a lab test and a taste test is because the lab test is picking up the acidity level, and then the taste test is picking up all the things you couldn’t pick up in a lab, like any defects: “Oh, it smells like dirty gym clothes” or “It’s briny” or “It smells like it’s waxy.” They’re picking up all the flaws that you wouldn’t be able to determine in a test. So they’re done in tandem for that reason.

CHRISTINE: If you see extra-virgin olive oil on the shelf, what you’re saying is that it likely has been processed in a certain way with low heat, it’s been lab-tested, but you may not know the quality of that oil on the shelf that you’re seeing in the supermarket, right?

MICHAEL: Right. Which is why I think tasting it is so important. And what’s frustrating about that, people are like, “Well, what’s the actionable advice? What do you do?” Tasting the oil to make sure that it’s not rancid, and if it is, then you can take it back to the retailer and be like, “This is rancid,” and they’ll give you a refund or a store credit, because you really shouldn’t be paying all that money. I mean, olive oil’s expensive. So —

ROSIE: It’s expensive. Yeah.

MICHAEL: — you shouldn’t be paying all that money if it’s not what it says it is on the label.

CHRISTINE: What is rancid oil? How would you describe the flavor of rancid oil?

MICHAEL: So most often, to me, it smells like a box of Crayola crayons. It will smell waxy. It’ll have just a stale-nut smell to it, and flavor. It could also be slightly fermented. It might have a briny or sour quality to it sometimes. But I find it … for me, anyway, it’s more often when I worked in an olive oil store, it was more that it had that waxy quality. And old oil will also cling to your mouth. It’ll stick to the walls of your mouth, and it’s gross. But a fresh oil is actually quite clean, which is surprising, I think. I think most people will be like, “You’re drinking fat,” but actually, when you swallow it, it is a very refreshing, clean … doesn’t have that same effect when you taste it.

ROSIE: We’ll see about that when we taste-test.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

CAIRA: When you’re looking at the harvest date, is there a time period that you would recommend? What’s the window?

MICHAEL: So generally, in the Northern Hemisphere, it’s the fall and winter harvest, and then the Southern Hemisphere, it’ll be spring and summer. So you’re looking for the previous harvest date from whatever time you’re in. So if we’re in July of 2025 right now, you’re going to be looking for October, November of 2024.

CAIRA: Got it.

MICHAEL: If it’s an oil from the Northern Hemisphere, yeah.

CAIRA: And if it goes beyond that, maybe it’s from two seasons ago. Is that too far back?

MICHAEL: “You want to use it up within two years of the harvest date” is a good rule of thumb. And then once you open it, you want to try to use it up within two to three months. So I know big families can buy those big 3-liter tins, and they can use it up in two to three months, and that’s great. But if you can’t do that, don’t be buying these giant bottles if you can’t use it up within —

CAIRA: No. Really?

ROSIE: Well, because remember, olive oil does not get better with age.

CAIRA: Yeah, I guess that’s true. But even if you buy in bulk, and you don’t open them, it’s still not great —

MICHAEL: Well, as long as you’re in that two-year window, yeah. Yeah. But generally, buy smaller if you can’t use it up within that window once you open it.

CHRISTINE: So here’s the big question: How much does country of origin matter? I feel like there’s so much debate, like, “Italy is the best,” “Greece is the best,” “Spanish is the best.” I mean, does it break down like that, or does it really even matter?

MICHAEL: I don’t like to discriminate based on a region. I really encourage people to try just all kinds of olive oil from all over and see what they like. It’s like wine in a lot of ways. It doesn’t age like wine, but there are so many nuances and flavors, and there’s so many cultivars of olives that can be made, and they are in certain regions versus others. And so to limit yourself to one region I think is doing yourself a disservice. I think it’s really fun. And because it’s such a pantry staple, you’re using olive oil — or at least I am — all the time, that it’s really easy to just buy whatever and try different stuff and see what you like. And eventually you’ll figure out, like, “Oh, I really like this type of oil. I like it really bold and grassy and peppery,” or maybe you like it more, like, fruity and a little more mellow, with a subtle pepperiness. So by tasting a bunch of them, you’ll discover what you like.

The important thing, country aside, you really want to look for on the label: It should say “Product of” whatever the country is, because that means that the olive oil is from that country, right? If it says “Imported from” or “Packed in,” that just means that the oil was bottled there, right? And so you know how, earlier, the true-or-false question “Italy is one of the biggest importers” … that’s because they’re also exporting it, but it’s bottled in Italy, but it’ll say “Imported from Italy.” But if you look on the back of the … it should say where the olives are actually from. It’s not bad that the olives are from this other place, but I think it’s a little bit of marketing saying — Yeah. Yeah.

ROSIE: Is there any benefit of trying to ensure that you’re getting something that’s quote-unquote single origin, where all of the olives are from one place? Or what’s your feeling about blends? Because I’ve seen olive oil from Portugal plus Italy or something like that.

MICHAEL: Yeah. So blends is … it’s important, I think, to just define what we’re talking about. So you could have a blend of two oils from two different estates, but you could also have a blend of oils from literally all over the world that are five or six different countries. Those are often cheaper. We’re talking about some of the big grocery store brands do this. They’re combining oils from all over the world. And you just don’t know how long those oils were sitting, where, when … I mean, that’s why the harvest date is so important, especially when you have all these oils from all over.

CHRISTINE: Well, now I feel like I have been doing a lot of things wrong with my olive oil. But just to recap, by and large, people should be looking for extra-virgin olive oil. If they want the most flavorful, the most complex oil, they want to be looking for that harvest date, and it should be within two years. You want to consume it within two years of harvest.

MICHAEL: Right.

CHRISTINE: You want it to be a clear oil in a dark bottle or in a can.

MICHAEL: Right.

CAIRA: We’re going to take a quick break, and then when we’re back, we’re going to talk through how you should be storing your olive oil, and we’re going to do a taste test. Plus, we’ll get some of Michael’s best secrets for finding a great olive oil out in the wild. Be right back.

CAIRA: Welcome back. We’re here with Michael Sullivan, and we’re talking all about olive oil. And we’ve covered a lot of the basics for what you should be looking for when you’re shopping in the aisles, but now we want to know, Michael, what you think most people are doing wrong when it comes to storing their olive oil at home.

MICHAEL: Yeah, I think the most common issue is storing the olive oil right next to the stove, just because that heat.… When you think about, like, for extra-virgin, you don’t want excessive heat applied to it during production, right? So then to just put it right next to the stove defeats that whole purpose, and they worked so hard, ideally, to —

ROSIE: For those of you at home, Michael is making meaningful eye contact with Christine and Caira.

MICHAEL: No, no, that was not a —

CHRISTINE: I am guilty as charged.

CAIRA: Yeah, I do do that.

CHRISTINE: I keep mine in a clear bottle with a spout next to the stove, yes.

CAIRA: Fine. I’ll change, I guess.

MICHAEL: But also you want try to avoid decanting the oil in a clear glass bottle or some carafe —

CAIRA: Even if it’s pretty?

MICHAEL: I know, and I have a beautiful one that I found at an estate sale, and I’m just like, “I guess I just look at you. I don’t know what I do with you.” But, yeah, like we were saying, dark glass or tin is best, ideally a tight-sealing lid. Avoid pour spouts. I mean, restaurants will have them in open … but think about how quickly they’re going through that oil, it’s not an issue. And it’s best to store it in a dark cupboard or pantry, away from heat and light.

CAIRA: So not directly above your stove.

MICHAEL: Mm-hmm.

CAIRA: Got it.

MICHAEL: Yeah. Yeah.

CAIRA: And what about plastic? I mean, even one of the bottles that we recommend —

MICHAEL: Graza, yeah.

CAIRA: — the Graza, I see it in grocery stores all the time.

MICHAEL: And Bertolli too, yeah.

CAIRA: It looks really cute, honestly, but it’s in a green plastic bottle. What’s the deal with that?

MICHAEL: Yeah. So the experts that I spoke to, they overwhelmingly … that it should not be put in plastic, and I think that they’re pointing to the fact that some plastics are semipermeable, so then there’s the risk of oxygen getting in. So they really say to stick to glass and tin. I think it’s hard, because so many of the reasonably priced oils in the grocery store, some of them are in plastic, and so we included them in our lineup because we just felt like we needed to include some of these reasonably priced oils. I think just using them up quickly is probably the best advice.

CHRISTINE: Can we spend a beat talking about why you’re not supposed to refrigerate your olive oil? I grew up with a bottle of olive oil in the refrigerator. I don’t like how it gets chunky, but I would assume that keeping it in the refrigerator would extend the life of the olive oil and keep it from the heat that could accelerate it going rancid. So why not keep it in the refrigerator?

MICHAEL: For one thing, it’s impractical, because then, yeah, like you’re saying, you have this congealed oil, so when you go to use it, you’re like, “Okay, now I’m waiting for this to thaw and come back to being liquid again.” And some people will run it under hot water, which … probably not a good idea. Also, taking it in and out of the fridge can create condensation, which some experts were saying that that’s also obviously bad for it. So you just want to keep it in a cupboard at room temperature. The fridge thing, don’t bother. There was also some misinformation circulating many years ago that was, like, “If you put your olive oil in the fridge, and it congeals or it solidifies, that’s an indication of quality, and it’s …” No, it’s not an indication of quality, because each oil will have a different density, and they’re going to solidify at different temperatures. And only a lab test and a taste test can determine the quality of the oil.

CAIRA: What’s the most surprising thing that you found during your testing?

MICHAEL: I think when we made the decision to only include oils that have a harvest date, I thought there would be fewer than there actually were at the grocery store. And some of the big brands — like, Bertolli is one of them — that I was actually really surprised by.

CHRISTINE: Which is one of our picks, right?

MICHAEL: Which is one of our picks, yeah.

CHRISTINE: I mean, that’s surprising to me. We tasted all these fancier oils, what I would consider more expensive, fancier oils, but Bertolli did well against these other oils, right?

MICHAEL: Yeah, it did, which was surprising. But it has that bold, peppery, really grassy flavor to it, which was appealing.

CHRISTINE: So I want to know, if someone is in a grocery store, and they don’t have access to the oils that we recommend in our guide, they want to buy a nice oil, what are some tips for finding something good?

MICHAEL: If you’re in a grocery store, like Whole Foods or somewhere, you often want to look not at eye level. So above and below is where a lot of higher-priced oils will be, or any product, really, for that matter. You’ll notice if you go to Walmart or wherever, all the white-label products are all eye level.

That’s called the “strike zone,” and it’s all strategically placed for the consumer. So, same applies to olive oil: You often find at the bottom some more interesting oils, not the major brands that are at all the chains.

CHRISTINE: That’s why my toddlers are always picking the oils on the bottom —

MICHAEL: Yes, they have champagne taste. But, yeah, that’s a good thing. You can also look online too, if you don’t have a specialty food store. A lot of specialty food stores, if you have one in your area, will have maybe a better selection. If you live in an area where you don’t have access to stores like that, you could go online and just do a little bit of research. A producer that’s very transparent online and shares their lab results, wow, that’s a pretty … they’re not hiding anything, right? So I think that’s a good indication of a quality producer.

CHRISTINE: What’s one of your favorite mail-order brands? Give us the inside scoop!

MICHAEL: So one of my favorites is Fat Gold, and they’re actually based in California. They’re moderately priced. It’s just reliably good, and it’s so flavorful and robust, and it’s one of my faves. And we’ll actually be trying some today, so —

CHRISTINE: Ooh, I’m very excited.

CAIRA: Fat Gold.

CAIRA: Okay, Michael, you brought some oils for us to try.

MICHAEL: Yes.

ROSIE: Let’s do it. Let’s taste-test. Unfortunately, the process is to swirl, sniff, slurp, and then swallow, which is just horrifying.

ROSIE: So this is number one?

MICHAEL: Yes, this is number one. So, okay. So first, hold it in your hand … and there’s a little lid for these sometimes, or you could just use your hand. You just want, like, to swirl it in your hand and just sort of, like, warm the oil a little bit, just makes it easier to smell. And then —

ROSIE: This is quite a picture. We are holding these little tulip glasses and swirling them with our palms over the tops.

CHRISTINE: Ooh, it smells delicious.

ROSIE: And then you knock your —

CHRISTINE: You don’t like the smell? I love the smell. I feel like I’m in Italy.

ROSIE: Grassy?

MICHAEL: Mm-hmm. Very grassy, yeah. Yeah.

ROSIE: It’s hay … it’s …

CHRISTINE: All right.

MICHAEL: Yeah. So when you slurp it, you just slurp it and slurp it across your … be noisy. I know, it’s a weird sensation —

CHRISTINE: It’s so peppery.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

CHRISTINE: Oh my God, that’s so peppery.

ROSIE: We’re losing Caira.

CAIRA: You guys, I don’t think I can do this two more times.

ROSIE: I really did not like the experience of it in my mouth, just drinking oil.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

ROSIE: But the after of it, the way that the flavor diffuses on the palate, and it really kicks you in the back of the throat. That’s so nice.

CAIRA: Yeah, it is very peppery.

MICHAEL: Yeah, it’s really fruity. And this isn’t even the most —

ROSIE: I’m getting green apple.

MICHAEL: Yeah, green apple, definitely, yeah. Yeah.

ROSIE: So that’s number one. This is olive oil number two.

CAIRA: We’re swirling, we’re warming.

ROSIE: Let’s get the nose in there.

CAIRA: Oh, wow. Yeah.

CAIRA: I like this one better. It’s not as grassy, dirt-smelling.

ROSIE: Like fruits. Like light fruit. Maybe a little herby.

MICHAEL: Yeah, definitely getting herbs on this. Yeah.

ROSIE: So swirl, sniff, slurp, swallow.

CHRISTINE: I’m slurping.

CAIRA: I didn’t hear you.

CAIRA: Go on.

CHRISTINE: That was the … okay. Okay, this one —

MICHAEL: But this one’s very bitter.

CHRISTINE: Yeah, it’s a little bit more bitter —

CAIRA: I can handle this one.

CHRISTINE: This one isn’t doing anything for me.

MICHAEL: Oh, really? Maybe because you already hit your —

CHRISTINE: Maybe because it already hit me —

MICHAEL: Yeah. Yeah, yeah, yeah.

CHRISTINE: I don’t feel any sensation afterwards.

MICHAEL: Oh, really? Slurp it across your tongue. Yeah, yeah, yeah.

ROSIE: Oh my God. Because this is spicy on the tongue and in the back.

MICHAEL: It’s spicy. This is pepper-spicy, like black pepper.

ROSIE: Yeah. The other thing to say about this one is, it’s very thick. In terms of viscosity, it feels —

MICHAEL: Yeah, yeah, it has a buttery quality to it, yeah.

CAIRA: But it’s not clinging to my mouth —

MICHAEL: No.

CAIRA: — feel like the last one was.

MICHAEL: Oh, really? Yeah, yeah.

ROSIE: Number one tasted more oily.

MICHAEL: Yeah. Yeah, this has a buttery quality to it. Yeah, this is one of my favorites.

CHRISTINE: This one is very mild to me. It tastes bitter, and I feel a little bit of a burn.

MICHAEL: Oh, interesting. Okay.

CHRISTINE: But nothing like that first burn. That first burn was like, “Whoa.”

MICHAEL: Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, okay.

CHRISTINE: Okay, this is number three.

CAIRA: Okay.

CHRISTINE: And —

ROSIE: Cap it and warm it.

CHRISTINE: — we’re swirling. We’re warming, we’re swirling. And I’m going to sniff. Whoa. That’s almost, like, waxy to me.

MICHAEL: Yeah. Remember what I was saying earlier?

CHRISTINE: Is that a little essence of crayon? I think it’s a red crayon.

ROSIE: It’s funky.

MICHAEL: It really … isn’t it wild? It smells like wax and cardboard, yeah.

ROSIE: It smells old. Just, like, old.

CAIRA: Is it safe to say this is the rancid one?

ROSIE: I suspect so —

MICHAEL: Yeah.

ROSIE: Swirl, sniff, slurp, and swallow, guys. Oh, it just coats your mouth.

MICHAEL: I know. It’s a different —

ROSIE: I don’t like that, Michael.

MICHAEL: — different sensation. It’s —

ROSIE: I don’t like it.

CHRISTINE: It’s like you just played an off note or something. It’s like —

MICHAEL: Yeah, it doesn’t have that burn. It’s flat, clings to your mouth.

ROSIE: Michael, I don’t like that at all.

MICHAEL: That’s been sitting in my window for a month with a loose lid on it in a clear glass jar.

CHRISTINE: In preparation for this day?

MICHAEL: In preparation for this day.

CAIRA: I think this is what it would taste like if you just drank straight vegetable oil.

MICHAEL: Yeah, yeah. It has that … it’s lost all of its … yeah.

CHRISTINE: And the lingering flavor is just not pleasant.

MICHAEL: Not pleasant. So number one was Fat Gold, and it’s their oil that’s made from Arbequina olives, and the second one was also Fat Gold, but it is from Frantoio olives. And that was the bitter, spicy one. I just got this shipment in, so I was like, “Oh, this will be fun.” I think it’s nice because some of the grocery-store brands aren’t going to have the type of olive, so I thought it would be interesting for you to try a specific type of olive cultivar. And then the last one was my little jar of gross oil —

ROSIE: Clear jar.

CHRISTINE: What are some of the … these are not picks.

MICHAEL: No. Yeah.

CHRISTINE: What are some of the picks that we have in our guide that you really love that you’ve been using since you did this guide?

MICHAEL: Yes, okay. So for one that’s really fruity and buttery, that’s really good with fish or a lighter salad dressing, maybe a salad dressing that has fruit in it, I really like the Bono Sicilia PGI Organic Sicilian olive oil. That one’s really good. We all really like that one. It’s not going to be as pungent and bold as some of the others. If you want something more bold, Bertolli is really … we tested the Rich Taste one. That’s what they call it, the Rich Taste. So it’s just the bold, peppery … there’s a blend of a bunch of olives, but that’s going to be the more grassy, bold one. But, yeah, those are the two extremes —

CHRISTINE: Two ends of the spectrum.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

CHRISTINE: Okay.

MICHAEL: And then also the Graza, that one’s also going to be a little more bold and peppery, yeah.

CHRISTINE: Love it.

CAIRA: Michael, what’s the last thing you’ve recently bought that you’ve really loved?

MICHAEL: So this is nerdy, but … so I do a lot of sewing, but I just bought these antique buttons. I’m laughing as I’m saying this. I sound like such a dork. But they’re portraits of these very fabulous women. They’re a hundred years old, and they have little portraits, and one of the women is wearing a big, jaunty hat. So anyway, I’m going to put them on a shirt that I’m going to make.

CHRISTINE: I love it.

CAIRA: Where did you find them?

MICHAEL: The World Wide Web.

ROSIE: WWW.

MICHAEL: No, I got them on eBay.

ROSIE: Michael, thanks so much for joining us.

MICHAEL: Thank you so much.

ROSIE: Another great episode with Michael Sullivan.

CHRISTINE: I mean, when are we going to have him back again? He’s so great.

ROSIE: What an absolute delight.

CAIRA: Yeah. He better not bring any more olive oil around me.

ROSIE: Yeah. To be fair, we don’t want to drink any more of his olive oil.

CAIRA: No.

CAIRA: Lovely man.

ROSIE: Lovely man.

CAIRA: Please don’t ever make me do that, y’all.

ROSIE: What are you all taking away from this episode?

CHRISTINE: Well, I truly feel that I have now the olive oil walk of shame to do on this show, where I need to admit that I’ve been keeping my olive oil in a clear bottle with a spout near the stove because it’s super convenient. And I guess I’m going to have to stop doing that when I get home —

ROSIE: For shame.

CHRISTINE: Yes, for shame. For shame. And I think because of the way I’ve been storing my oil, I will taste it when I get home to make sure it hasn’t gone rancid.

CAIRA: Wow.

ROSIE: You’re brave.

CHRISTINE: Yeah.

CAIRA: Yeah. I’m just going to assume that my olive oil is bad, and I’m just going to buy a new one. No need to taste it.

ROSIE: What are you going to get?

CAIRA: I think I’m going to get the Bertolli, because I’ve definitely seen that in every grocery store I’ve ever been to. So —

ROSIE: Very accessible.

CAIRA: — I think I’ve decided that I’m not going to be an olive oil person. It’s just … I’m happy with whatever works and is cheap.

ROSIE: I feel like this conversation validated the fact that I am an olive oil person and will continue to be. I’m taking away that extra-virgin is king of the hill, that’s what you look for, the designation you look for when you know you want to have something that is that real authentic olive taste. And then the other thing to look for on the bottle: harvest date.

CHRISTINE: Yeah.

ROSIE: Really trying to ensure that you see a harvest date, and that it’s within two years that you’re consuming it from harvest date.

CHRISTINE: And not to be confused with the best-by date.

ROSIE: Not to be confused with the best-by date.

CHRISTINE: And older is not better here.

CHRISTINE: Older is not better. We’re not aging like fine wine.

CHRISTINE: No, no, no.

ROSIE: If you want to find out more about Michael’s reporting, you can check out our show notes and our website. That’s it for us. Thanks so much for listening.

CAIRA: Bye.

CHRISTINE: Bye.

CHRISTINE: The Wirecutter Show is executive produced by Rosie Guerin and produced by Abigail Keel. Engineering support from Maddy Masiello and Nick Pitman. Today’s episode was mixed by Catherine Anderson. Original music by Dan Powell, Marion Lozano, Elisheba Ittoop, and Diane Wong. Wirecutter’s deputy publisher is Cliff Levy. Ben Frumin is Wirecutter’s editor-in-chief.

CHRISTINE: I’m Christine Cyr Clisset.

CAIRA: I’m Caira Blackwell.

ROSIE: And I’m Rosie Guerin.

CHRISTINE: Thanks for listening.

[BLOOPER]

MICHAEL: Yeah. If you’re not used to trying it, the reaction was just people choking in public in the store, and you’re like, “Oh, my gosh. Are you okay?”

The Wirecutter Show is executive produced by Rosie Guerin and produced by Abigail Keel.
Engineering support from Maddy Masiello and Nick Pitman.
Episodes are mixed by Catherine Anderson, Efim Shapiro, Rowan Niemisto, Sophia Lanman, and Sonia Herrero.
Original music by Dan Powell, Marion Lozano, Elisheba Ittoop, and Diane Wong.
Wirecutter’s deputy publisher and general manager is Cliff Levy.
Ben Frumin is Wirecutter’s editor-in-chief.
Hosted by Rosie Guerin, Caira Blackwell and Christine Cyr Clisset.